GOVERNOR"S ISLAND. Nature seems to have placed this spot at the entrance of our
harbour, on purpose for a pleasurable occasional retreat to the citizens of New-York
during the spring, summer and fall seasons. The soil, naturally good, and consisting of
about seventy-five acres, when improved into walks, groves and gardens, cannot
otherwise than present a delightful scene of recreation to the man of taste, particularly
after the fatigues and cares of business. The distance from the city is about three
quarters of a mile, being a safe and easy passage, and free from the inconveniencies
and expence which the Philadelphians experience in their three miles ride, through a
suffocating species of dust, from that city to Gray’s gardens. As improvements, in this
view, are now begun on Governor’s island, a house and summer houses erected, and
several thousand trees planted out, we may soon expect to see it metamorphosed from
a neglected spot, into a seat of taste and rural elegance. The island abounds with
excellent fresh water; and a clean gravelly shore, washed by waves that are poured in
upon us, twice every twenty four hours, directly from the bosom of the Atlantic, attended
by a fresh sea breeze, offers every inducement to gratification, to those who are fond of
bathing and swimming, or wading in the water. The prospect from the plains and rising
grounds is delightful; on one side a spacious and beautiful bay, covered with vessels of
every description, either leaving or coming into port, from all parts of the continent, and
every quarter of the globe: That part of the Sound called the East River, and the
majestic Hudson, who invites the eye to follow his waves a considerable distance, as
they roll toward the mountains of the north, form a grand and picturesque scene on two
other sides, and to be equalled in few situations, in this or any other country. The city of
New-York, (the Naples of America) exhibits from this place, an elegant appearance,
which will daily become more so, as the improvements are completed in the
neighbourhood of the old battery, and new buildings erected in the place of stables,
barracks, and other petty edifices, which ought always to be in the back ground or less
noticed parts of a large city.

October 15th [1783].   We went to the boat which was already full of passengers; they were all, as they say in America, gentlemen, that is, merchants, butchers, laborers, on their way to Albany to clear themselves of the suspicion of Toryism.  They drank all day in order to forget their situation.  If to be a bore were a crime, they all certainly deserved to be hanged.  The greatest annoyance to me was that the wind was adverse and the ebb was too strong.  It seemed that I should be obliged to stay a few days in this company.  
           
The Hudson is, without doubt, one of the most beautiful and extraordinary rivers in the world.  It flows straightly from north to south and often forces its way through a chain of mountains which it divides perpendicularly; it is more like a perfect canal which a human had led through the rocks.  It would be impossible to describe the astonishing impressions, picturesque situations and charming banks of this river.  The most talented painter, a poet of a most exuberant imagination could only give a feeble notion of it.  Nature did everything to this land, and art as yet spoiled nothing in it; everything there breathes majesty, a greatness which astonishes man, and a variety which charms him.  Because of insufficient tide and steady adverse winds we cast anchor six miles from the city, opposite the beautiful house of Mr. Apthorp, one of our traveling companions who was accused of being a Tory and had to go to Albany to clear himself.  His house, built well and with great taste, has a spacious garden, perfectly planned, with a giant rock in the middle of the yard; one can see from thence both rivers, the East River and the Hudson, which water both sides of the island.
           
October 16th.  At 11 in the morning the wind blew from the south and we set out on our way.  The weather was beautiful, nearly as warm as in Summer.  We had plenty of leisure to observe the charming banks of New Jersey in all their beauty.  They are covered with impenetrable forests which look as if they grow on rocks; the rocks rising perpendicularly over the water or scattered at random present a picture of immense disorder.  In one hour we made as much progress as we made (p. 126) all day yesterday with so much difficulty and passed near Forts Lee and Knyphausen.  The latter was called Fort Washington before it was captured by Gen. Howe.  It is still guarded by British troops whose lines extend to King's Bridge, or rather to a small natural port Spuyten-Duyvil, in the northern part of Manhattan.  The American pickets are stationed on the opposite bank.  We saw two hostile sentries holding a peaceful conversation.
           
From Spuyten-Duyvil to the Croton River we sailed along the estate of Philipse's; it extends nearly twenty four miles along the bank and reaches from four to five miles in depth.  This land is of high value and best cultivated in the State of New York; it is now to be taken from the proprietor, confiscated and sold.  The old Colonel pays for his loyalty to His Majesty, the British King, with a loss of an estate worth nearly a million pounds sterling yearly and is left with his wife and children to the discretion of the British parliament.  I saw him at New York, broken down with age and sickness; he was preparing to leave his country and follow the rest of the British army.
           
The river widens here and forms a large lake which the Dutch called Tappan Sea; the name was preserved till now.  Before entering a place which is called Rockland, one crosses the boundary of New Jersey; beyond that point both banks belong to New York.  Tappan Sea is nearly five miles long.  The river then resumes its usual width.  To the east we see a land cultivated very carefully; the houses, settlements, and mills fill the valley and adorn the highlands, while the western part preserves constantly its wild beauty.  The mountains which present an array of cliffs and dense forests seen to indicate a very monotonous view, but the skilled hand of nature scattered this deformed material with such an art and placed it in situations se well chosen that it forms an unbroken chain which enchants the eye.  On top of one of the highest peaks we saw a large pile of dried wood together with various combustible materials and we were informed that such precautions extend to Albany and served as signals in case a move by the British army or fleet.
           
Our attention was called also to a very lofty peak on which there is a lake, where very good fish can be caught.  A mile beyond this point the land begins to grow level on both sides and the river widens again and forms a kind of bay which has preserved its old Dutch name Haverstraw-Bay.  But the river does not long enjoy this enlargement; two capes, Stony Point and Verplancks Point, close it in and form a kind of narrows.  These two important (p. 127) points were captured by Henry Clinton in 1777, but two years later General Wayne attacked Col. Johnson at Stony Point and took him prisoner with all his men; the timely action of Col. Webster of the 33rd Regiment saved Verplancks.
           
I forgot to mention that on this side of Stony Point we saw the small house of Mr. Smith, where the inquisitive Andre and Gen. Arnold had their meetings; I was told that Arnold was not the only one in his family who was cheated and that love strew with flowers the way which brought the Major to his degrading death.
           
If this be true, then I do not know of any more unhappy end than the one which this young officer had found; but let us hope that some day an impartial historian combining this dolorous war with the fate of this unhappy man will do justice to his virtue and will console his tormented soul.
           
From Stony Point the mountains rise higher and higher, and the bed of the river becomes narrower and narrower; the river is deeper here, but not swifter; it flows majestically and is in no hurry to leave its beautiful banks.
           
It is difficult to imagine surrounding more romantic than these.  The pen of Ariosto could not invent a like miracle.  One breathes here a mild melancholy; and deep silence which reigns here invites one to meditation and opens a broad vista to the imagination.
           
It was after sunset when we passed between the rocks.  The pale moonlight illumined the mountain tops which bowed, as if vaults over our heads; looking at my reflection in the clear and tranquil water I remained in ecstasy for a few moments, but I awoke soon when the ship trembled slightly as she started to move forward.

We passed quickly the Forts Clinton and Montgomery which were captured by the British after a stubborn defense.  The young Count Grabowski was killed there in the attack; he was a Captain of the English army and gained the friendship and respect of his generals.
           
The wind which gained entrance into these narrows began to blow with greater force and carried us off sooner than I wanted.  It was eight o'clock when we disembarked at West Point where we had to stop.  Gen. Knox to whom we handed the letters from Gen. Washington was so good that he invited us to his house, and as I spent a very bad night on the boat, I felt happy finding myself in a tolerably good bed.
           
October 17.  This morning I saw from the windows of my room two regiments of infantry; they looked quite well in arms.  Those who are accustomed to the appearance of the European soldiers would not be satisfied with the manner in which American soldiers go through their exercises.  They would find in them neither that martial step, nor that admirable coordination which particularly distinguishes the German army.  Yet these men and the militia so badly drilled forced two whole armies, excellently disciplined and presenting a formidable array, to surrender.
            
Opposite West Point is Constitution Island.  A chain stretched from one bank to the other completely closes the passage.
           
The highest of the forts is called Fort Putnam; when Arnold planned his treason, he ordered a large breach to be made there leading the American officers to believe that he did it to enlarge the interior of the fort.  All these fortifications are in poor condition, but nature herself contributed abundantly to their defense; the towering rocks everywhere make them nearly impregnable, and even the smallest handful of men skilfully managed would be able to stop a large army here.  The rest of the American army is camping on a small plain at the foot of the (p. 129) mountains.  We were assured that it numbers nearly four thousand men, but I hardly believe it to be that large.
           
At noon we left our General; he is an ardent Republican, formerly a bookseller in Boston; he was one of the first of the 'rebels' and one of the most enthusiastic supporters of the Revolution.  He lent us his boat which conveyed us to Poughkeepsie in less than five hours.  After we left the narrows formed by West Point and Constitution Island, we saw another small island called Pollopells.  Though both banks are rather well cultivated, their aspect is less pleasing; one does not meet here those charming pictures which distinguish the vicinity of West Point.  We saw several iron foundries, but the British army destroyed the settlements.  The surrounding woods are mostly oaks, pines and cedars and greatly facilitate the mining of iron ore.  This mining is easy, anyhow, as the mineral is found on the surface of the earth.  I read during the day the English translation of the Travels of Peter Kalm; it amuses me especially by its exaggerated exactness; the author omits no story which he heard from the people.  I think he was a better botanist than historian, for everything which he describes of the herbs and trees of this land is instructive.
           
We were much dissatisfied when, after arriving at Poughkeepsie, we learned that Gov. Clinton was away; we were especially recommended to him and I hoped that he would give me accurate information concerning this State and some events of the Revolution.  His mother-in-law whom we found at home received us very hospitably; she is 74 years of age, a Presbyterian; her hospitality and kindness were extraordinary.
           
October 18th.  We expected to leave this morning and to reach the Livingston Manor by land, but it rained all day; and since the carriages used here are not covered, we preferred to stay and await better weather.  I used my leisure time in arranging the material for my diary and in supplying you with a few of the particulars still wanting to complete the picture of American customs and manners.  It may be taken as an axiom that a traveler dining each day with a different host will eat for a month the same kind of dishes prepared in the same manner.  The table of a general, a governor, a tenant or an inn-keeper is similar in all respects: mutton, beef, pork; pork, beef, mutton; beef, mutton, pork -- these are the fundamental articles of food at each meal.  It consists mostly of two large pieces of meat served with potatoes and with various salads.  I saw only one exception to this rule, and this was in the home (p. 130) of the richest citizen of Philadelphia at a dinner for twenty persons.
           
They are accustomed here to satisfy the appetite, not to irritate it; to be sure, those two large pieces are sufficient for anyone to eat his fill.
           
The poorest tenant in American eats more meat in one week than many a European farmer does, even in the countries where he fares best, in a whole year.  Rum mixed with water is the most popular drink, but you can find Portwine or Madeira everywhere.  Here they make excellent beer from molasses and some kind of fir-tree, called spruce-beer.  All inventions which make life more comfortable and pleasant, all luxuries are unknown to them, except in the cities; and even there these are very rare.  But those few pieces of furniture which serve their daily use are kept with cleanliness and elegance unseen in our countries.
           
October 19th.  We had a shower this morning; a very strong northern gale did not stop the rain.  We remained the whole day with our good old lady and with Mr. Benson, which whom I discussed the tax system of this province.  I also looked over a large book of laws of this State and saw that here, as everywhere, their sphere of application is very limited and their conception evidently contingent.
           
As to the tax system it may be said it is very imperfect and even arbitrary, and subject to many formalities.
           
October 20th.  On rising from my bed this morning I saw the tops of the Catskill mountains covered with snow; the weather was rather frosty, but clear, and the wind quieted completely; we decided to set out and bid farewell to our hosts.  I was sorry that we could not travel by water, but the wind was adverse and, moreover, we could not find a boat.  The only way to travel in this land when one has not his own horses is to hire a small wagon which makes nearly forty miles a day; these carriages are very inconvenient, especially when the roads are bad as they are now, but it is possible to suffer this fatigue, and, I think, it makes itself less felt if one travels far, than if one does so on horseback.  You can cross the whole of America in these wagons and reach the most remote points; and though the inns are not situated most conveniently, there is always something to eat -- good bread, fresh butter, potatoes, which are much more tasteful than the European, and often good mutton; this is a very good meal after a whole morning of shaking and fasting.  One often finds inns with beds, but it is safer to have one's own mattress and cover.  Fresh straw is more comfortable than an old bed, which is frequently full of vermin and never clean enough to assure the traveler a restful night.

We left Poughkeepsie at ten o'clock and for some time followed the bank of our beautiful river.  The ground was a little elevated and overlooking the banks of the river; after viewing sufficiently the fertile fields which the river waters, our eyes rested on the endless chains of bluish mountains.  Their tops covered with snow presented us a picture of severe winter, while we in the valley enjoyed a moderate temperature.  Often the turning of the road or a rock projecting from the water covered the view before us, but soon our attention was attracted to another surprise and the eyes, sensible to casual impression, forgot quickly what they beheld a moment before.
           
We soon saw the ruins of Kingston which was burnt by Gen. Vaughan who was sent with Henry Clinton to help Burgoyne.  These two Generals said that they came here in vain because he whom they had to join, no longer needed their help.  They burned all the houses here.  Several inhabitants perished in the flames.  Instead of going to Albany, which was then without a garrison and where the Americans had their stores and about two thousand sick in the hospital, they returned whence they came and a most terrible devastation was the only result of their expedition.   
           
We lost sight of the river two miles from Esopus and passed the forests of Rhinebeck Township; this region throughout its extension has nothing remarkable except that its inhabitants are mostly Germans or Dutchmen; they speak bad English and their accent is wholly foreign.  We saw on our way as many churches as houses and observed that the inhabitants of this region are better devotees than farmers.  In the main this country is badly cultivated and the forests are destroyed in such a manner that their absence will soon be painfully felt.  When they want to clear an acre of land, they set fire to the trees which cover it; many trees still show incisions which they make to get resin used in making pitch and tar.  All fences are made of timber and are built with imprudent waste; no wonder that we failed to see even one hundred large trees in a stretch of twelve miles.
           
At about five in the afternoon, leaving  [?] Albany county, we turned on our way to see Chancellor Livingston; this excursion brought us again to the banks of the river.  ***  His house had been burnt by the British and only recently rebuilt; we were received very hospitably and spent the evening very agreeably; therefore, it required much courage to leave such a charming place the next morning.  The house is situated very delightfully; the family occupying it is kind, and every traveler after a fatiguing and tedious voyage fells the charm of an agreeable society here more strongly.  Our fear to meet impassable (p. 132) roads was the only cause which prompted us to leave the place where we have been received so well; on leaving, we turned our eyes toward it several times and rewarded with sincere regret the hospitality showed to us.
           
October 21st.  The day was beautiful and sometimes the heat became nearly unbearable.  Traveling is disagreeable here; the road and bridges are in a bad condition and we moved slowly in mud; we had to ford several creeks.  The aspect of the country gave us ample time to meditate over the tediousness of our journey.  I was happy when the day was over; we spent the night near Kinderhook, 25 miles from Albany, in the inn of a Captain.
           
October 22nd.  My mattress was very useful to me last night; the innkeeper, though a Captain, had no beds for us and demanded such a price as if we had slept on feather beds instead of on the floor.  We left him wishing that he might get a quicker promotion in the army and be more moderate in his prices.
           
The roads were again bad and tedious this morning; we passed through a forest of fir-trees where we found several hunters lying in wait for squirrels.  The Americans are wonderful marksmen and seldom miss their mark.  Their column aimed always at the British officers during the war and several persons assured me that Great Britain lost more officers in America during the last war than America had lost in all parts of the world at any time.
           
After making twenty miles through the woods, mostly on foot, we saw Albany from the top of a hill and soon found ourselves there, safe and sound.
           
We lived beyond the city with Mr. [Alexander] Hamilton, brother-in-law to Gen. Schuyler.  His beautiful house stands on a hill overlooking a large portion of the country.  We intend to stay here two days to get the needed information about our voyage.  I hope that my diary will be more interesting henceforth; we are penetrating a country less known though famous because of important events.  
           
October 24th.  We came this morning to the city to dine with Col. Lewis, brother-in-law to Chancellor Livingston, and at the same time to visit the city.  Col. Hamilton accompanied us on this excursion, and we had the pleasure of being entertained by his conversation; he is a young man of twenty seven years and certainly one of the most distinguished citizens of America.
            
Albany has absolutely nothing deserving attention; only the large hospital built by the British during the war in Canada, may be interesting to the traveler; but the situation of the city is very beautiful and the river which serves to embellish it contributes also to facilitate trade with New York.        

October 25th.  We left Albany at noon, having only two small bundles as our whole baggage and a little sugar, tea and a few lemons as our whole stock of provisions.  At first we followed the bank of the Hudson to a place called Schuyler-Farms where we turned to the left to see the great Cohoes Falls on the Mohawk.  We had scarcely made three miles when we heard distinctly the roar of the falls.  "What is this noise" -- asked Mr. Vernon.  "That is the echo of the falls," I answered, and we forced our way ahead through the forest; with each step of our horses the noise increased until it became so great that we could not hear each other speak.  From time to time we saw through the trees the river sweeping vehemently away the foam collected at the banks.  The weather was fine and agreeable, but the spray caused by the violent commotion of the water falling from a considerable height warned us that we are near the place; the view of the falls was still obstructed by the wood, but the terrific noise itself made an impression on us.  The impatience of our curiosity, the strong feeling of loneliness which surrounded us -- all this produced a chaos in my soul which I like to experience.  At this point we left our horses and penetrated on foot into the wood, but it was impossible to describe my feelings when from the height of a hill I saw the gigantic cascade of water falling into the abyss; the river is 329 yards wide in this place and the height of the falls is 75 feet.
           
The river gains in swiftness before the falls because of the declivity of the ground.  The rocks at the brink of the falls form (p. 134) a series of dams which by checking to flow seem to add to the impetuosity and determination of the water to plunge headlong into the steaming surge.  Add to this an astonishing charm of a rainbow which unites the most vivid colors to the dusk of a dark, dense fog, the terrible roar caused by the falling of a large mass of water from a great height and the curious effect of boiling water at the foot of the falls -- and you will have a faint idea of the picture.
           
​We would have remained there perhaps till sunset in ecstasy over this most beautiful view entrancing us, were it not for our men who pressed by hunger and evidently not so sensible to beauty of this kind, reminded us that we had yet to make more than twelve miles before dinner, and that we are already very late.  We returned to our horses two miles below, crossed the Mohawk, and rode along a highway to Saratoga.  We dined in a place called the Half-Moon where the junction of the Mohawk and the Hudson forms something like a half-moon.  I will not tell you of the bad roads we encountered.  The night overtook us as we were leaving the Half-Moon, and we forded several large creeks in darkness and without a leader, running a chance of drowning; at last a redeeming light showed us our inn.  Our horses exerted their remaining strength at the sight of this good star and soon brought us to a house more comfortable than we could expect.  A Captain of the militia was the owner of this inn.  His family consisted of his wife, about thirty years of age, and of a beautiful daughter of fifteen or sixteen.  A baby eight months old rested peacefully in the middle of a room where the whole family slept.

LORE FROM AWAY BACK.
Steamboat Memories of a Man Who Went on the "Powell's" Final Trip.
           
To the Editor of the Sun  — Sir: I have been reading the letters of the Mary Powell and other boats on the Hudson River.  I was born in Hudson, N. Y. in 1836, the son of Henry Hubbel of Hubbel, Clark & Co., owners of the steamer "Fairfield".  Later they bought a boat by the name of "Columbia".  She ran for a number of years and they bought the "Oregon", which was sunk by the steamboat "City of Boston".  The "Oregon" started out from the foot of Harrison street and the "City of Boston" ran from the foot of Vestry street.  The "City of Boston" ran right through the "Oregon's" hull and she sank immediately.  No lives were lost.
           
I wonder if any of the old timers remember the "Hope", which ran from Hudson to Albany?  It took her most all day to make the run between the cities.  There was another line of boats running from Hudson to New York under the firm of Lovett R. Mellen & Co.  They ran the steamboats "Hudson" and "South America".  There was an old boat named "Westchester" that ran from Hudson, but that was before I was born.  The firm of Hubbel, Clark & Co. ran two barges from Hudson, "Nos. 1 and 2".  The firm of Lovett R. Mellen & Co. also ran two barges, the "Lovett R. Mellen" and the "Samuel Leeds".  These boats carried hay and grain and other products.  At the time I speak of there were boats running from New York to Albany.  They were the "Isaac Newton", "Hendrick Hudson" and "Niagara".  I remember well the night of the wreck of the "Swallow".  It was during an awful heavy thunderstorm and she ran on a rock a little north of Athens.  Some lives were lost, but I don't remember the number.
           
I remember the "Mary Powell" when she was built and was on board when she made her trip down the bay and around New York harbor.  I was in the employ of Haviland, Clark & Co. at the time the "Oregon" sank, and also in the employ of George H. Powers when the steamer "Berkshire" burned near Stormy Point.  I was also in the employ of the same firm when the "Nupha" was rebuilt from the Berkshire's hull.  She was a propeller.  While she was making her first trip down, the ice stove in her hull — broke the sides right in.  Just where it happened I can't remember.  She was later raised and her named changed to "Metropolitan", and she ran on the East River.  I well remember the "Alida", "Armenia" and "Mattamoras".
           
I remember well the burning of the "Henry Clay" and the "Reindeer".  A friend of mine, Charles Carpenter, now living at Hudson, was aboard when the boiler burst on the "Reindeer".  At the time of the Civil War [1861-1865] the "Connecticut" and "Oregon" ran from Hudson, and the "Utica" and "Washington" ran from Catskill.  I think the "Daniel Drew" and the "Chauncey Vibbard" were the day boats to Albany.  The "Niagara" and "Alida" were later made into towboats and towed from Albany to New York.  The "Connecticut" and "Oswego" also were made into towboats.  I also remember the "Francis Skiddy", a four piped, side wheeled boat, which ran on the Day Line.   John H. Hubbel.

Editor's Note: The following text is a verbatim transcription of an article written by George W. Murdock, for the Kingston (NY) Daily Freeman newspaper in the 1930s. Murdock, a veteran marine engineer, wrote a regular column. Articles transcribed by HRMM volunteer Adam Kaplan. ​

                                                                No. 14- Charlotte Vanderbilt
The “Charlotte Vanderbilt” was a wooden-hull boat built by B.C. Terry at Keyport, N.J., in 1857. She was 207 feet long and was constructed as an experiment, but proved a failure.

Because the “Charlotte Vanderbilt” could make no better than 12 miles per hour with her experimental engine, she was laid aside, and it was not until 1862 that she came into regular service, and then only after the installation of a new engine.

In 1861 the “Robert L. Stevens,” and old Hudson river night line boat plying between Saugerties and New York, was condemned and her engine was removed and placed in the unused “Vanderbilt.” Thus in 1862, the “Charlotte Vanderbilt” replaced the “Stevens” on the night line between the two river ports, but her name was changed to the “William F. Russel.” Later she was chartered by the War Department and her name changed to the “John Tucker.” After the Civil War she sailed in southern waters in and around Washington and Baltimore under the original name “Charlotte Vanderbilt.”

In 1877 she was purchased by the Catskill line for service between Catskill and New York, and it was in this service that she met her end.

​On Friday evening, July 14, 1882, the “Charlotte Vanderbilt” headed down the Hudson for New York and at the time about two miles below the Rondout light house collided with Belden’s steam yacht “Yosemite,” which was sailing up the river. The “Vanderbilt” was struck at the forward gangway and was cut in two, sinking immediately. Fortunately there were no passengers or freight aboard at the time, and the crew was rescued. The vessel was never raised.